In The Studio: Cara Marie Piazza
Photography by Melissa Nelson for Speciwomen
Photography by Melissa Nelson for Speciwomen
Philo Cohen for Speciwomen: Who are you?
Cara Marie Piazza: I’m Cara Piazza, a natural dyer and artisan based in New York City. I have a small scale dye house and create color from plant and animal based dyes, working with alchemical dye sessions and a variety of surface techniques. I teach classes on natural dyeing and believe that through sharing craft we can help heal and create sustainable solutions for our communities.
PC: How did you first start to work in fashion and how did that interest bleed on natural dyes?
CMP: When I was younger I had wanted to work in fashion, and went to college for textile design in London. I was disillusioned with the toxicity of the fashion industry, both mental and physically for the environment. When I found natural dyes in college, I became almost instantly hooked on the medium. Almost obsessed. I dedicated my thesis to them and haven’t looked back since.
PC: What is your favorite dye to use and what is one that you have never used before that you want to experiment with soon?
CMP: I don’t have a favorite really, it’s almost like asking a mother to choose her favorite child. I love working with the discards from the farms I partner with and am currently experimenting with chamomile. I have had a very abstract and vibrant past few years and am finding playing with more subtle whispers of colors very soothing and inspiring.
PC: Do you also design clothes or do you only dye clothing by artists and designers?
CMP: I did have a brand Calyx but now I am focusing predominantly on my dye house. The truth is if we truly want to create sustainable alternatives , having my own label isn’t going to cut it. No new things need to be made. We need to create solutions that promote up-cycling and diverting the current toxic systems in place.
PC: What was your favorite project you ever worked on?
CMP: So so hard to choose! But I am most proud of working with NI EN MORE. NI EN MORE is a non-profit social innovation project and clothing brand that merges political activism, fashion and art.
Their mission is to create a sustainable, impactful business that will empower women in Ciudad Juárez. I’ve taught them natural dyeing to help empower their fashion label and create a sustainable dye process for their work.
PC: Do you work alone?
CMP: I don’t, I have a team of amazing interns and an assistant. I also share studio space with great makers at Demploi Studios in Greenpoint. It takes a village.
PC: How has your experience of gender shaped your work?
CMP: When I was designing clothes it was important to me that my pieces be worn by all gender representations. Although the garments may typically be seen as “femme” , I want all bodies to feel confident and comfortable in my clothing. Gender in nature is flexible and fluid, most flowers actually contain more than one sex at a time, this notion is what Calyx embodies. A Calyx is the part of the flower that holds it all the petals together.